I Go HoJo! San Juan, Puerto Rico (PR)

A very different experience today. Awakened at 5.40 to realise we were  docking in port……obviously a city and quite a different feeling around. We breakfasted for a change in the sit down, I am waiting to be served,  restaurant The Pacific, where we shared a table with folks from Cincinnati and Missouri.

As  PR is American we had to have all the relevant documentation viz ESTA forms, passport, room cards etc to allow us through immigration via the “quick route”. Important also to have US dollars as the unit of currency.

It was straightforward with no hassle and soon we had opted for a tour of both the old and the new city!  This was the poorest guide so far giving very limited information. It was Sunday morning and of course everything was closed! 

Our first 15 min stop was a local farmers’ market. I had a most interesting talk with two beautiful ladies on the cheese stall…..where else would I go? 

We even had to ask our guide the names of obvious key buildings. We visited the Capitol (reminding me in miniscule) a little of the Capitol in Washington DC. 

The interior was beautifully decorated with mosaics depicting the key periods  of the history of San Juan.

Christopher Columbas in 1493 sure discovered just about everywhere there is to discover in the Caribbean!

We visited San Juan, the old Fortress on a promentary known as El Morro (the headland) once known as the Castillo San Felipe Del Morro. 

The Esplanade in front of the Fort is now an area for recreation where once it was the killing fields for both Spanish and English  soldiers.  The nation that controlled the harbour contolled the riches of the Caribbean. The original tower in the fort was built in 1539………a long time ago!

Today instead it was a happy venue for  wedding…..I seem to be seeing several on my travels!

I suppose by my age now that should be normal and of course better than the alternative! How can I be this age, the body bits tell me but the mind is still only 19 and keen to learn new things……………….don’t remember all however?

The architecture of the town is very Spanish and reminds me of the old town in Seville although there are many more coloured buildings. 

Poverty however was still fairly obvious with the horrendously poor homes  beneath the road alongside the harbour! Sadly there are always folks, everywhere in the world, no longer young who are obviously stoned with nowhere to go, women as well as men!

We looked for a very Puerto Rican place for lunch and did take the advice of our guide.  The best ever Pina Colada (Mexico included) and the local dish was a Medallo ( a kind of potato and garlic basket) with Tiger Prawns in a garlic sauce), Sweet Plantains accompanied my chicken…………I opted for this as I hate garlic overpowering all other flavours.

The locals were very friendly but I must admit to quite happily returning to the ship circa 2.00pm even although we are not departing until 10.00pm this evening. Weather is dull, very humid (100%) with spats of rain.

It is now 3.30pm and this is a changeover day on the boat when 2,000 folks change over and we, the original other 300, are now the “old inhabitants” of the Victory. 

Another cruise ship has berthed on the next pier and hopefully will contribute, even a little, to the local economy. It is really coming home to me now how much all of the Caribbean Islands depend on the tourist trade to survive!

St Maarten, Phillipsburg and Marigot

Again excitement approaching what looked like a large cluster of islands in a beautiful morning light as dawn was breaking.  A different feeling however  approaching St Maarten at 6.00am. 

I could see what looked like industrial smoke curling upwards and  surprisingly, high rise flats? 

At first wasn’t sure if this was indeed our destination as there seemed to be lots and lots of islands but yes it was. 

We passed by the French side of the island before docking in Phillipsburg on the Dutch side.

We could have arranged our own taxis etc but took the easy route and booked via the ship. 

We did have a very handsome 6.6ft guide (somewhat ADHD) from Houston Texas, formerly a basketball player, but who now opted to live on the island having given up his six  figure salary in USA. He was a bit hyper but indeed gave us plenty background history as we drove along.

There has been lots of fighting over the years between the Dutch and the French re who owns what bits of the island. There is of course a border and we are led to believe that the Dutch side is considerably more laid back than the French side. 
 

We stopped of in Marigot on the French side but to be honest we have found anyone we have spoken to, to be warm and friendly wherever we have gone.



There are so many interesting  and beautiful people on these islands and I would love to spend time just taking pictures of faces but I would prefer to ask folks bu the occasional sneaky pictures. This woman carried herself so elegantly and her hair pleated all the way down her back!

As an island I was not impressed with enough to want to bring me back here………a first so far!

St Kitts

It is an amazing feeling approaching a new island in the early morning light. Seeing the geography from the sea is so different and St Kitts is very different to St Lucia. More open spaces with mountains in the centre, and a craggy ridge looking very like Stac Polaidh. It is beautifully, warm …....no hot. (circa 85F).  I am in 7^th heaven nothing is too hot for me.

Each port appears to be similar in that the pier is surrounded by fairly tight security and includes a shopping mall complete with the same types of shops, clothing, souvenirs and of course high end diamonds, jewellery and watches all duty free. Over and above this there are large signs with 25 and 50% off. This is the close season meaning that there are only 2 cruise ships per month instead of up to 5 a day in high season. This is the economy of the islands and money is obviously tight at this time of year. 

Education is considered to be important as is the church and like all the islands so far thare are almost too many churches to count! 

Enroute to the train we passed a very important local landmark known as "The Happy Tree"!







 


Today we boarded a bus at Basseterre for the first 7miles of the tour, along the south coast on the Caribbean side and then onto an open topped train Scenic Rail Tour  around the rest of the island (on the Atlantic) shaped somewhat like a guitar.

It must be noted that the guides are young (men so far) and very well informed. Information is given but in an interesting and with added humour as appropriate, contrasting with so many heavy and boring tours undertaken in the UK.

Sugar cane was the main economy until 2005. Some local singers entertained us as we clanked and chugged our way along, just relaxing and enjoying the gorgeous views…..nothing to say of the rum punches and pina coladas freely available (virgin only for us)! 

This was a great way to see the island and every so often you saw a glimpse of the real island from some very poor homes to the joyful exuberant shouts and cheers from the children at break in a primary school as we clanged past.

Workers in the fields ranged from back breaking clearing stones from the soil to hey....this fence is meant to be lent on in the noon day sun man!

I can’t begin to say how relaxing is the whole experience, sailing on the high sea, approaching a beautiful island, learning about it as we go  and just enjoying being and absorbing…no stress or hassle!

You can imagine the sounds and singing emminating from here on a Sunday?



St Kitts is certainly worthy of a return visit.

St Lucia

There is enough to feed and drink permanently and I can see a very necessary diet ahead in the coming weeks! Still for now….just enjoy, life is indeed too short to worry………..…..remember all those ladies on the Titanic who kept refusing the sweet trolley!!!!!!!

It is really exciting to approach a new place from the sea and see the island as it emerges into view, the distant horizon and an outline becoming detail with geographical features, interspersed by man made structures  giving a feel, an impression  for what might lie ahead?

St Lucia is indeed tropical and extremely beautiful from afar. The rainforest covers the land in view and I can’t begin to imagine what it might have been like for explorers hundreds of years ago………..totally unknown vegetation and peoples, friendly or otherwise, where was the next meal coming from?

 
Fully replete we disembarked to be met by a “gaggle of people” touting for our business re available tours.  


A young black man took our fancy  and having introduced us to John we opted to share a taxi with an Indian couple to journey to the south west coast of the island and visit “The Pitons”, on my bucket list since an eleven year old  girl in my first year secondary  when I saw photographs in The National Geographic Magazine.

John was very informative and knowledgeable about the history, geography  and culture of the island. He created an atmosphere which allowed us to ask questions  and eventually we discovered he had been a teacher but decided it was too hard and gave it up.  

He hadn’t finished his Masters and later on we discovered he only worked a couple of days a month now that the cruise ships only came to the island twice per month. He also worked in a voluntary capacity but recent storms had hit the island hard and folks had been killed in horrendous landslides. 

The economy is so dependent on tourism, no tourists like us……no income! There is no work for young men nor for older men like him………….It seems so incongruous and I feel so powerless to do anything to help.

It is in such sharp contrast to opportunities available for young people in Australia! We drove through excrutiatingly poor villages where folks lived in nothing bigger than a garden shed, a falling down one at that. They only went inside at night to sleep. Having seen this however we also discovered that folk live to a ripe old age………..eg John quoted known folks to be 104 years old!!!!!

 
 The contrast between the rich and poor is so evident but I must add that the beauty of the island was just startling even although folks are merely existing and scraping a living by whatever means? 

The photographs need no words just filed into my memory albums forever. I do want to return ……….maybe one day?

We are sailing............

An easy and straightforward flight out of Antigua to Barbados.

Previous research had indicated that it was worthwhile to board the ship and then go out exploring Barbados itself. First sight of ship left.

However, by the time we taxied from the airport, boarded the ship, went through the required paperwork etc, reached our fabulous state cabin (complete with balcony, very impressive), we then had to attend a compulsory safety briefing  at 4.00pm.

I have discovered the incredible amount of work going on behind the scenes or, in this case…up front and painting the front of the ship………… in preparation for all the new guests!

We set sail at 5.00pm and spent the rest of day exploring the floating city, up and down decks, port and starboard, fore and aft and in and out of the many restaurants and entertainment areas. It will take a bit of time to familiarize ourselves with everything and hey…as long as we don’t get lost overboard!!!!!!

Funnily enough we opted for the quieter parts of the ship (the serenity area) but it is incredible to think that there are circa 3,000 guests and 1,300 crew members aboard ………..a totally different experience for me! By the way it is gloriously warm!!!!!! Never too hot.

The first task was how on earth do we work the TV and find out what is happening on board?

We are Sailing........

Internet connection very slow and expensive and uploading pics near impossible. Have had 2 wonderful days in St Lucia and St Kitts. Will post info later but minus pics until I get back to Antigua. This is the best of worlds for me, being on the sea, sailing and the opportunity to choose how you want to spend time on each of the islands.........having a ball!

Oh...We're going to Barbados!

Exciting..Here we are at VC Bird International  Airport in Antigua en route to Barbados on the 9.35 plane. Although small please note that there is free wifi with several different access points.......Heathrow and Gatwick  please note!!!!!

Ann is having cognitive dissonance  re whether she should have a piece of banana bread or nothing........guess the outcome?

Property search...........

I met the delightful and beautiful Collett this morning at Redcliffe Quay and watched a little boy playing  complete with his skeleton scarf and Captain's Crossbones Hat  ensconced tightly on his head.

Again Munroe I was so reminded of you at that age..............you wouldn't go out anywhere without a "uniform " and a hat of some kind! I will not publish this to the world and embarrass you!

After completing a range of business we visited the Couturiere, Noreen Phillips, a wonderfully talented, elegant and globally acclaimed fashion powerhouse  and her team to pick up our personally made and designed dresses. Her shop is a veritable treasure trove of ladies dresses, evening wear as well as bags and shoes. There are several of my friends who could spend a long.................long time with her.....Christa?

We did encourage a gentleman visitor to purchase a beautifully handmade pink shirt! If you are ever in St John's Harbour this is a must place to visit! Thank you Noreen, I am thrilled with my dress..................watch this space!

The rest of the day was taken up with visiting  a range of properties along  the west coast of the island, for me another 7th heaven experience. Gave us lots of food for thought!

No time for the beach today but who knows what tomorrow might bring?

Nuff said!

What if you discriminately..............?

Sunday Exploring

Waking up each morning to the warm sun is so good. Apparently up the hill here there is normally a breeze which keeps the temperature  very comfortable. However the weather has not been as "normal" this last week and it is hot from 6.00am...............however I am not complaining.

The island is "divided" into 6 areas, St John's, George, Peter, Paul and  Mary.  Today we were exploring the area on the south east part of the Island known as St Philip. Everywhere you look there are many, many churches. Even the smallest of villages will often have 2 or  3 churches. The ladies are always so well dressed  with very smart long but colourful dresses and of course .....hats.  As we passed through one small village I could see that all of the choristers were dressed in white robes, a real contrast to the colourful dresses.

All shops are closed on a Sunday but you can still buy  wonderfully fresh fruit and vegetables at little stalls by the side of the road. No parking bays ....you just skew to a halt  wherever. Tiny, fat little sausage like bananas are the sweetest ever as are the very small pineapples, native to the island. Friendly advice is also given as the vendor looks for the best piece for his customer...............eat the bananas tomorrow when they will be perfect!

Everywhere is so green and lush, the grass wild and high in many places due to the recent heavy rains.

The island is only 17 miles wide and it wasn't long, having driven along the main highway, Fig Tree Drive, before we reached our first port of call, English Harbour having passed Aunty May's Garden Shop!

The Marina is empty with only a few yachts left, the rest having taken off to cooler climes in the mediterranean. This is the "closed" season here, May to November,  the hottest part of the year!

I spent ages just watching the antics of a very old pelican as he ducked and dived catching fish.

I was reminded of you Munroe as a 7 year old  boy  reading "Storm Boy" for the first time  and the dramatic effect it had on you when the pelican was shot! There were 3 pelicans flying around and diving , always successful  with a mouthful of fresh fish as their reward.

This part of the island is much hillier, not high but with constantly changing heights. Bright and colourful buildings and with many hand painted signs obviously communicating the views of the writer!

Our first beach of the day was Pigeon Point and as you see just glorious. Nearly deserted with only a couple of adult groups just sitting and chatting in the remarkably warm waters, a scene that will have been repeated there since time immemorial!

Half Moon Bay, our next stop, so reminded me of Barra  in the Outer Hebrides, when Maggie and Brian, Jim and I  anchored there when we were on Arctica  in April 2008. Opposite sides of the ocean but the colours just the same..................although temperature somewhat different.

So many different sites and scenes reflecting the culture of the island!

So many gorgeous scenes and  how can I choose one  snap to represent a whole  experience of a beautiful moment in time? So many photo opportunities and here I go again snap, snap snapping........thank goodness for the advent of digital cameras........has it only been 13 years since my first camera?

Our next stop for lunch and ultimately for the rest of the day was a new luxury complex built by friends of Ann ( in fact her ex pupils!) at Nonsuch Bay. This was at the ends of nowhere along a very slow, and rickety, rocky, access road. Lunch was just delightful looking out from the hillside across the infinity pool out to sea. The fruit punches....non alcoholic..........are just fantastic.

We bedded down on the beach for an afternoon of reading and swimming and I have never  been in such hot.....no not warm............but hot sea water!

If you have the odd $750,000+ spare cash you can purchase one of the smaller one bedroom studio apartments................a little bit out of our league!

On our way home we eventually found a property we had identified for  Ann's consideration.............food for thought. Looking at properties helps fine tune your criteria and helps you determine the specifics. I do know however that the minute you walk into some place you know instantly whether it is really for you!

Exhausted............... we eventually arrived home just as darkness was falling, another satisfying and happy day.