Chilled in the 85F temperatures!

The last couple of days have just been so laid back. Pam says the weather in June has been most unusual and she should know having lived here for 50+ years.

It is hot so no option but to head back to one of my favourite beaches, Long Bay, paradise in miniature -  especially when there are so few people around.

Swimming in the warm, crystal clear waters, reading and even better.....  reading on the green engine (lilo) whilst floating endlessly on the sea! Nothing better....... just bliss.

My last day in the West Indies was a bit of a bonus. The morning was spent packing and then I had the opportunity to spend the afternoon for the third time as Ann's guest at The Athletic Club just  beside the airport.

I enjoyed the Caesar Salad once again. The facilities are superb with a well appointed gym, a ladies locker room which is on a par with Gleneagles and the swimming pool beside the well tended green pitches and gardens. 

The staff are so welcoming and helpful. Perhaps my only comment would be  that it would be good to have some "healthy food options" available on the menu at all times eg choice of fresh smoothies/juices/ fresh fruits perhaps reflecting Antiguan specialities.

Even so I look forward to returning there in the future.

A last farewell to Pam on top of the hill and it was time to pay my transfer dues out of the country  before my 8.30pm flight home.

I have come away from the West Indies with a little more knowledge about  the history and the culture    and many colourful and vivid memories.

Maybe for the first time ever on my travels I have spent more time physically chilling out and just enjoyed being without feeling the need to do or to work!

A new stage in my life perhaps?

Jabberwock Beach

I just love this  tree and wonder how long has it been here and how many people have scrambled over as I did.

How many other folks have taken as many pics of it as I have........trying to get the best view of colour, shape, perspective etc etc........(32 pics to date and none  justifying its beauty)!

A Second Round?

With Ann requiring to attend to business I opted to venture out again on the Golf Course all by myself. I just loved it especially zooming around on my golf cart!

I had a lovely morning and just got back in time before the heavens opened  and the storm took over. What had been green, peaceful and bright became wild and noisy.

Folks were driving their carts wildly and slamming to a halt in under the canopy of the clubhouse.

There was much laughter and very wet steaming people awaiting the passing of the storm ............... it eventually did!

Photographs

Have now managed to upload some pics of the cruise to try to give a flavour of the differences of the various islands visited during the cruise.

A posting with only words is so bare. If interested you can hit the button "Older Posts"  at the bottom right hand corner of the blog page.

St Johns, Antigua

Life in the main town here is a colourful, noisy,  bustling mixture  which assails you as you emerge from the cool of the car into the street. The air conditioning in my car is something which is rarely on but is a necessary sanctuary in the heat of the town.

The accents are wonderful and I have difficulty tuning in to what folks are saying sometimes.  The use of pronouns is a little different meaning  I have to retune   and listen carefully.  The lady attendant in the car park always greets us with an enormous smile and usually has some quip or information to share. 

I so want to take photos of the many individual characters I see with their long pleated hair and very colourful clothing but, from experience so far,  this intrusion into personal space is not welcomed....and I can appreciate that!

This particular sign is showing the office of The Directorate of Gender Affairs above the Pastry Shop....maybe we could learn something here?

Some of the signs never cease to amaze me and the only sure thing is to expect the unexpected!

I am not sure what is beyond the beauty supply!

Chilling Out!

Everywhere I go on the island I see the beautiful Flamboyant Tree, a most apt title. 
Words are quite unneccessary!

The days just blend together in a series of laid back “unactivity” with breakfast in Café Bella (fantastic omelettes) but with the not so fantastic, even torn-faced waitress or  lunches in various little cafes followed by looking at a few properties.

Time is passing quickly and I will soon be going home.  We've revisited some of the "touristy" spots eg Nelson's Dockyard, and  have decided to leave the property viewing for the last few days and each day just enjoy one 365 beaches on the island, a day at Pigeon Beach, Jabberwok Beach with its wonderful tree and no people as well as brief stop offs at wherever the music takes us.

My idea of bliss is to take my book out on the lilo and swim out to a float or buoy and just "hang out" there for an hour or two reading and feeling the sea lapping gently beneath me. Being the "hurricane" season there are the occasional squalls and heavy showers interrupting the peace but the lack of makeup and my "fuzzy" hair isn't bothering me!

Most evenings we spend an hour or so with Pam who lives on top of the hill. She has lived here since the fifties and has seen all the changes in the second half of the 20th century as well as those of the 21st. She has been part of a life which no longer exists and I am hopeful she will commit her thoughts and memories of this time to paper. I will get a dictaphone to her via Ann and type up her thoughts for her to determine what she wants to do  once she has committed to paper..........who knows?

Whilst at the golf club we spoke to a chap, Wesley, who was the bar manager at The Inn in English Harbour. 

He commended it to us so ......... notwithstanding we had to try it out! It is indeed a "Wow" place. 

A incredibly  picturesque caribbean bay with english fortifications built by Nelson in the 1700s. The few yachts scattered across the irradiance of the  waters added to the peace and calm of the experience. No man-made parasols on the beach just the natural palm trees offering unbelievable shady cool!

Lunching at the best table in the restaurant overlooking the beach and the sea was just perfect.  We did later on check up the cost of staying there so if you have circa £700+ to spare per night this would suit you down to the ground!!!!!!

There is always plenty to see and observe when reading your book is just too exhausting!  Great watching some youngsters having fun diving in and out of the warm waters from the raft.

Just to add..................yet another film crew there with obvious stars....although I didn't know who they were....I guess they are just following me around! 


Another exhausting day! mmmmmmmm.

A Golfing Experience, Cedar Valley Golf Club

Sunday 12^th June

Each day brings the sun with a wonderful breeze up the hill. Looking out over the ocean as daybreaks is especially beautiful, the cocks crowing (as they also  do at 5.25pm) but today was a different activity………..off to Cedar Valley Golf Club for a round of 9 holes (the back 9 I’ve been advised as they are easier than the first 9)!

Putting on underwear and proper trousers with a waistband and button is painful, maybe a few pounds heavier than when I left? 

Golf gear is strictly adhered to on the island. Off we went hired the clubs, balls, bought a new glove and……………hired a golf cart. 

That was indeed fun! We could have circled for ages playing at dodgems but, bearing in mind we was there  to play the golf, we set off from the 10^th tee. It wasn’t as bad as I had thought it might be considering I hadn’t held a club for  4 weeks! However at the green on the 13^th several carts appeared over the brow of the hill. 

I know things are different here in Antigua but I did note they hadn’t come from behind. 

Several folks looked terribly important but as Ann was sitting at an angle of some 60 degrees on a high spot we wondered what was happening? I called over hello and the red shirted handsome professional called hello back! I was busy saying please go through but didn’t quite understand the response when he replied that it was OK as they were doing a shoot…………they wanted me just to tee off!  


Well no… I am the green beginner who gets  stressed if I think anyone is watching and I might make a hash of my tee shot! No confidence in my abilities…justly so!

No problem they said……… we are filming for the Golf Channel on TV and for the BBC!  Uuugh!

No way  Can you imagine my duff shots? The presenter was exceedingly charming, tall, dark and handsome, very like a 30 year old Ben Genese and ushered me through. The Pro said they would film my tee shot and then give me advice!!!!!!!

Somewhat nervously I collected my driver, set up the ball……without it actually falling off the tee………. and hit the shot. (they weren’t filming. It was a similar hole to the Lonesome Pine on Arndean Course at Muchart)!

It did for once actually go straight and the pro informed me  it was on the fairway and I would get a good second shot.  I couldn’t actually find the ball after we chuntered down the hill passed the wonderful Flamboyant trees, not realising I had hit it much further than I had thought. It was in fact an OK shot and was on the green in 2!

I can’t deal with the pressure of potential fame!

I really enjoyed my nine holes in such a beautiful setting…some OK shots and several skittery ones! It was great fun  on the cart as we whizzed along creating cooler air on the flat surfaces although we were hanging on for dear like down the steeper, stony, rutted roads!  Anne did a sterling job as the Caddy and  Driver  and duly collected $200 when we passed go!

The temperature now was circa 90F as we finished at 11.15am……… a wee bit different to my last outing on the top nine, Arndean in Muckhart in the driving , horizontal, cold rain.

Totally jiggered we retired to the Athletic Club to lie back and eventually lunched late after swimming gently in the wonderfully warm water. Writing this now in the cooler breeze outside the house at 6.00pm complete of course with a glass of chilled Pinot Grigio! 

Will have to go in however because the mossies are eating me alive!

Eating, eating and more eating!

Saturday 

Viewed  some properties around the island  and lunched in Bambula, a wonderfully colourful caribbean peaceful oasis in the centre of St John’s. 

Food to die for with squash and pumpin soup followed by crepe of the day. 

Up until now I have more or less refused all sweet trolleys BUT when I saw the house speciality……..Bambula Banana. Grit and resolve were quickly extinguished and I just indulged in the cinnamon and sugar delight!!!!!!

The walls are also covered with the work of local artists which just adds to the atmosphere of this quiet oasis in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the town. Ellen, with her irish accent, adds  a particular dimension  to the restaurant.

Lots of great reviews on Trip Adviser and I will be adding mine when I get home!

Friday

Dined in The Larder,  again fantastic curried sweet potato soup, almost as good as my own! Love the design and layout of this contemporary restaurant.  Folks do think I am mad asking for soup when it is so hot………………NO!

Bridgetown Barbados and home

Wed 8^th June

Left the ship as we docked in Barbados and had a delightful flight home to Antigua……..that is until the tropical storm hit!  It was quite different identifying some of the islands from the air, their own geographical imprints amid the turquoise waters, Barbados, Martinique, Guadaloupe and unexpectedly landing in St Lucia on the tiny little runway where we had docked   nearby when there! Quite a different perspective.  

I found the sky with its myriad of colours, the range of blues  and whites, the everchanging cloudshapes just fascinating in contrast to the deep greens and turquoises below.I love abstract paintings and prints and there is nothing more abstract than the sky and the sea in their  natural settings.

As we neared Antigua the blues and whites became grey, black and angry and things began to get a little bumpy! Having been given the warning by the Captain I could feel the adrenalin pumping and thought immediately of you Blair and wondered how you would feel in this situation.

However, I must add, once we were through the cloud we could see what was going on above us but everything was OK……….well until we thumped very hard on the runway and with breaks screaming we eventually ground to a halt. I am quite sure there couldn’t have been much rubber left on the tyres! The rain was horizontal and a bit like looking at a very badly focused TV screen. Everything was black! 

We happened to  be sitting in the front seat. When the door was opened and the steps which folded up inside the plane  were lowered we thought the roof had blown off as we were not just drenched but felt ourselves swimming in water as the call came for women, children and the elderly to come to the front…………..we of course fell into the elderly category!!!!!!!!!

At least the rain and squalls were warm as we tried to keep our balance as we descended the six steps to the tarmac. By the time we got into the terminal drowned rats looked like fashionistas compared to us.

However our very wet disembarkation worked to our advantage. On entering immigration a Virgin Atlantic plane had landed before us and there were at least 400 passengers in an enormous queue in front of us with at least 200 screaming small children…bedlam! It usually takes forever for even one person to get through these channels and the thought of at least three  hours in this queue was despairing.

Help was at hand however! A wonderful woman took one look at us and said “Oh my dears........... and promptly directed us into the queue for the residents  and not the foreigners.

10 minutes later we were through and our bags were first off the carousel….someone was looking after us!

US Virgin Islands, St Thomas and St Johns

Pattern now seems to be to wake early circa 5.00am and ascertain where we are in relation to land or the next port of call. This morning we docked in Charlotte Almera the main town of St Thomas around 6.00am. Ann went off shopping downtown searching for some earrings using the local stone, Larimar.

I opted to stay around the harbour  but there are only so many diamond shops you can go into! Believe it or not I have been diamonded? out!  With jewellery starting circa $2,000 I have stopped viewing having been in circa 40 stores so far! I looked for  the tram skyway but was too late in finding it to be able to ascend and return in time for out booked trip to the Island of St John’s. 

Currency here is of course the US$ and apparently I should have taken my passport as well as my cruise identification with me? Customs Officer suggested they might just have to keep me as I had no photo identification. One look at my nonplussed face and they decided no they obviously couldn’t cope with a blue haired old biddy!!!!

With large raindrops spattering down in temps of 82F, we set of on a small ship with approx 100 passengers to the island of St John’s with a population of 5,000. No hospital or medical care available and only a primary school. Secondary  kids have to travel daily by boat to the school on St Thomas, about 2 hours 30 mins  round trip….this is the hurricane season starting June to November.

As I write this, (Monday evening 9.00pm) the wind is whistling round the ship and we are “shoogling” a little in the high winds!

The trip to St John’s was most pleasant and relaxing and we docked in the harbour of the Virgin Islands National Park. I must add that we had anticipated possible rain so were well prepared with our highly fashionable rain ponchos purchased the previous day in San Juan, Puerto Rico!

Caribbean  time is as laid back as lots of other places in the world, mañaña, mañaña, mañaña……..Eventually we boarded a totally different open bus as they somehow hadn’t managed to work out they had 46 passengers and only 2 twenty seater buses! This worked to our advantage although his mike and speaker didn’t work and he had to had out to speak to us every time we stopped! 

The roads on the island were in good condition but……….a bit like single track roads, the main difference being, no passing places BUT people overtake all the time anyway regardless of whether they can see or not!!!!

In the mangrove areas you can see the enormous termite nests and the smell is pretty overpowering.

                  Interestingly the vehicle was left hand drive (US) but they still drove on the left side…….. a leftover from British ownership of the islands! It made for many interesting corners.

This is a beautiful island   covered in rainforest and totally dominated by mossies! For every one I killed on my person it had managed to suck up lots of red stuff very quickly. I started to pop up blisters like a “blister pack”! Itching is not pleasant in the warm 100% humidity. Still the open bus  with the wind and the driving as we screamed up and down and on two  wheels round corners, distracted me somewhat!

There are lots of beautiful beaches and that of course  is where the majority of passengers on the cruise had opted to go……..we did notice as we passed all that folks were dowsing themselves in bugstuff! 

Each corner revealed another gorgeous vista more breathtaking than the previous! It is hard to choose photographs to show the island at its best ….all seem very inadequate.

Conservation of the reefs are highlighted here however, as in all the West Indian islands visited so far,   basis conservation principles and everyday eco practices are not yet accepted as the norm, plastic bottles and bags are deposited everywhere!

It is fascinating to see the colour in everything especially for such a “black and white “ person as moi?

The bright colours contrast incredibly with the deep blue sky, the very dark green of the forest and the incredible turquoises of the sea. Humour is everywhere and life is indeed lived here with “fun” and laughter a key part of it.

This is the place to come for a laid back relaxing beach type holiday (…if mossies don’t bother you)!